Greenstone/Caples

Timing and key info for other trampers

The Greenstone/Caples track is normally done over four days, as outlined in the DOC info above. If you were doing it over four days, I'd recommend using the DOC huts, and it's handy if you're coming from far away as there's a short first and last day (if starting from Greenstone carpark).

I've outlined the timings below. As you can see, I'm not exactly a speed demon - my fitness doing this is poor, I was slow on the uphills, and I regularly stop for 5-10 minutes to take photos. I also have little legs. Basically, if I can do this, so can you.

Garmin/GPX files: Day 1 | Day 2 morning, arvo | Day 3 morning, arvo

Day 1 - Greenstone carpark > Mid Greenstone hut

Getting there

I'd explored getting a water taxi to Greenstone Carpark, but it was all getting too hard. After oversleeping, like normal, I rolled out of bed and started driving to Queenstown to pick up the keys for NZDA and then on to the Greenstone carpark.

I laughed when going past the turnoff for Chinaman Flat, remembering how my mates and I accidentally drove that way when going to the Routeburn and nearly destroyed my poor little low hatchback... and then cringed when I saw the following warning:

Luckily the fords were not deep, at least when I went, and my car managed fine. When heading out, I even saw a wee Holden Barina beside me in the carpark! For anyone stressing, there is cellphone coverage at all the fords and basically most of the drive there except for the carpark itself.

The fords are pictured below - the middle one is definitely the deepest:

Carpark to Mid Greenstone hut

Day 1 GPX file | 16.25km, 5 hours activity, 3.5 hours moving

Having been distracted by the DOC visitor centre merch as well as oversleeping, I arrived at the carpark later than anticipated, and quickly set out. The walk in to Mid Greenstone was uneventful, but I am sad that I missed out on seeing the DOC Greenstone Hut as it was around a 10 minute walk off the main track.

Despite not taking the detour I was hoping for, the sun had set by the time I got close to the turnoff for the hut - downside to winter tramping, especially in the valleys! With my handy headlamp, I found the "marked" turnoff (by the track marker pole having some electrical tape on it) and found my way to the hut. Inside, I found it was flasher than I had expected, with lights, gas and separated sleeping rooms. I shared with four lovely hunters, ate my food and eventually rolled into the luxury of my own 'room' of bunks. Bliss.

the big day

Day 2 - Mid Greenstone to Upper Caples

Day 2 morning, arvo | 30.11km, 9 hours 50 minutes of activity, 6 hours 10 min of moving per Garmin

I won't lie - the thought of this day made me nervous. I know I tend to run over time walking as I get heavily distracted in my own thoughts and I like to take photos (see above delta between activity time and moving time), plus I only have short little legs, so I knew I'd be starting in the dark and ending in the dark.

Compounding the suck was the fact that this day ended up pissing down. I got to McKellar Hut and nearly just gave in and slept there to get out of the rain! It was cold and I was head to toe in rain kit, with only my face showing - two layers of gloves, fleece and a rainjacket, rain pants... sigh.

The day started beautifully, however. I left Mid Greenstone at around 7:15am with the sun still down, crunching my way through the icy valley. I was treated to a lovely sunrise, with the sky turning excellent shades of red, and while the weather turned later on - there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad gear. Being well prepared meant that this was annoying, but not a killer (except for convincing myself to leave McKellar...)

The saddle is just as it's sold - the track is benched and features many switchbacks, not like the standard New Zealand track which cuts to the chase and heads straight up. The view from the saddle was great even with the poor weather, and I can only imagine it would be amazing on a good day.

I got in to Upper Caples at about 6-6:30pm after a long lunch day - as expected, I started and ended in the dark. I was pleasantly surprised to find nobody else there - the bookings had other people, but clearly they saw the weather and decided nope! I love staying in huts solo - it's very peaceful, and allowed a good sleep in the next morning.

over and out

Day 3 - Upper Caples back to the car park

Day 3 GPX morning, arvo | 17km, 5 hours 10 minutes activity time, 3 hours 45 minutes moving time

Despite mentally planning to continue my streak of getting up and heading out early so I could get back to Dunedin mid-arvo, I continued my streak of sleeping in and then enjoyed a lazy morning. This trip was the first time I bought my down pants for sleeping pants (Aegismax down pants - around 230g, so about a 50-100g weight penalty on my normal sleeping tights) and it was LUXURY being able to laze around the hut without fuss reading through some good books.

Eventually I got moving, and was treated to the glory of the Caples. Generally it is a valley walk and a lot of the walk (similar to the previous days) is in the green, mossy forest, but there were some spectacular open portions. I set up my camera for some photos just as the sun peeked over the mountains framing the valley and was well-rewarded.

The DOC Mid Caples hut is well apportioned and set out. I've never seen the circular tables they had in there before! I'm hoping one day to bring my partner back here if we are in Queenstown - it's a nice easy walk in from the road end and has amazing views. Do recommend.