Teri Urwin GPX files

Gillespie Pass and Crucible Lake

In April 2021, despite a middling weather forecast I set off to Makarora on the West Coast to do Gillespie Pass. With jet boats on both end, 36 hours without seeing a living human and amazing views, I had a ball.

Getting there - an adventure in itself

The plan was simple - drive over after work on Tuesday, head out Wednesday. What could go wrong?

I had my new tramping tent, a back up car camping tent, a sleeping mat and was driving a road I'd driven hundreds of times before. It all went badly when I decided to check Google maps on how to drive to the Champagne Gully freedom camping site (which in hindsight I should have known about) and took a shortcut past Alexandra. I hit a possum, and my already-struggling front bumper gave up the game. I got the AA out, but by the time he came and ripped out the offending part to be repaired back in Dunedin and got to my campground it was 1am.

To add insult to injury, the ground was too rocky for my tired self to get tent pegs in - so I ended up camping under the stars..

Surprisingly not cold - though I had layered a 0° bag and a -10° bag. Was beautiful to sleep under the stars! I woke up the next morning to head to Makarora and climbed Mt Shrimpton.

Night two, after a wonderful climb of Mt Shrimpton and the fun surprise that Makarora has a pub that serves great burgers, I finally got my new lightweight tramping tent up to get a good nights sleep for the walk ahead.

Day one - Makarora to Young Hut

8 hours start to finish | 20km

The day started with an exciting jet boat ride over the Makarora. The other people who booked decided to skip straight to Siberia Hut given the poor weather forecast - and I don't blame them! - so I was walking in on my own.

The walk was beautiful and what I have always associated with tramping (having cut my teeth in the Makarora/Fiordland area during uni) - moss, birds, valleys and rivers.

Only one thing sums up this day - wet. It started moderate, with a bit of rain that lulled me into a false sense of security. By the time I got to Young Hut, which I had the glory of sharing with nobody, I was soaked to the core with my rain pants wetting out around 6 hours in and my rain jacket just about done. Unfortunately, my practical skills are minimal, and between the damp rain and my general uselessness I was unable to get the coal fire started. Next morning was a damp start...

Day two - over the pass

Just under 9 hours moving | 11.32km
After eventually convincing myself to get into my wet merino and squelching boots, I started to talk myself into going over the pass. The weather was fine in the morning, but the cloud above me was threatening - I had made plans ahead of time with the jet boat company that if needed I could spend an extra night to make sure I went across the pass with the best weather possible.

When I made it to the base of the pass, I spent around half an hour assessing the weather and eating breakfast, and eventually decided to give it a try - no regrets in the end!

Day three - Crucible Lake

About 8 hours moving | 15.7km

After an enjoyable night at Siberia Hut (while it felt weird to talk out loud to people again, I was lucky enough to be sharing the hut with a bunch of nurses that worked with my partners parents - thanks again for the alcohol in a specimen jar!) I made my way on my own to Crucible. Now that I was past the pass, the second-most-worrying parts for me as a solo tramper were coming up - two separate river crossings, the only ones I couldn't skip via jet boat. Luckily, they were a (cold) breeze. Crucible Lake was amazing, and it was nice to be able to drop a lot of the non-essentials at the hut and head out with a lighter load.

Day four - heading out

A cruisy 2 ½ hours moving | 7.7km

My luck with the weather turned, and my final day out ended up being nearly as cold and miserable as my day in. Luckily for me, I didn't have far to go - I took a brief meander to the jet boat pick up point and read my book under some handy shelter, and then scoffed down what felt like the worlds best corn and cheese toastie.